Saturday, I had the opportunity to shoot a beautiful wedding in Waveland, for Ashley & Greg, which turned out to be awesome, BTW. I had a blast and spent the day, just shooting, goofing, and having a lot of fun. I wanted the images to weave together the story of their special day and show how much fun a wedding can be. As all weddings, the stress disappeared after the kiss, and the couple and guests relaxed and had a great time. Hope you enjoy and take a look!
Monday, August 20, 2007
Monday, August 13, 2007
External Lighting on a Budget!
How many of you want to lean the principles of lighting, but just don't have the funds to go out and purchase a studio lighting kit. The strobist movement can help you, and if your on a tight budget, here's all you really need. Just remember, this is not pro quality gear and should not be considered as such, but most of the flashes listed have an eBay market value and can later be sold if you decide to upgrade, getting most of your $$ back.
First, lets talk about new vs used. I'm not a big believer in used electronics, but if your on a really tight budget and your buying solid gear, I can live with it. I've been the victim of buying other peoples problems, so just be careful.
Here are the essentials...
Used Flashes:
Pick up a few Vivitar 283's as cheap as possible off of eBay, but no more than $45. Once you get them, you will need to also buy a variable power module here. With this module, your flash now ROCKS, as it's mobile, powerful, and the power output is variable. Add the SB-4 and you have quick recycle time in studio, or battery capability on location.
Another great used flash, but a little more pricey is the Nikon SB-24! Before you sink any more than $80 on a used flash, check out the New Flash recommendations.
New Flashes:
A great new flash, is a Sunpak 383 Super, which is an awesome flash that is more than capable to give you great results, and super easy to use. For just about $10 more, you should also check out Vivitar 285 HV, which has a pc sync socket, plus is just a little bit stronger light output, and has been in production for over 30 years. Probably dollar for dollar, one of the best flashes ever made.
You should have the heart and soul of your new lighting now, so lets look at how your going to trigger them.
Flash Triggers:
On the cheap side, you can buy a simple hotshoe trigger and receiver by Popsing, but you will have to buy more receivers as you get more flashes. or you can fire them via slave flash adapters. These remote triggers are cheap and pretty reliable within 25 feet or so, but certainly not meant to be pro quality or capability. There are a number of eBay sellers who specialize in these things, but it seems they all come from China, so be careful, shipping can add up quick.
Diffusers:
You will need a way to diffuse the light. You can invest in umbrellas and simple diffusers, that should all do the trick. My favorite diffuser for the money, is the bottom of rubbing alcohol bottle at walmart. Combine that simple diffuser with a shoot through translucent umbrella and you have a really quick and easy softbox effect that really provides you shadowless portraits. When it comes to the rubbing alcohol bottles at walmart, your on your own, but you can get some cheap white/translucent umbrellas on eBay here! You will also need to be able to mount your flashes and umbrellas together, which should require you go get something like this!
Now you can shoot one flash diffused with shoot through umbrella, and one light with the bounced white umbrella, if you only had a way to mount the lights.
Mounting the Lights:
Clamps can make great ways to mount flashes and umbrellas, but you must have someplace to clamp them to. Here is the cheapo version from Home Depot!
You can also buy Bogen Superclamps if you want something a little more professional. If you don't have something to clip onto, I would recommend lightstands.
Lightstands are a great way to hold your flash and your remote receivers already can be mounted directly onto a lightstand as well as your umbrella holder. I would recommend an 8 to 10 foot stand, and you can get them very reasonable here!
Finally, you can buy a whole kit already together from MPEX, specifically designed for poor strobists here!
The Bottom Line...
If I had to price this out today with a used Vivitar 283 and variable power module, with adapters, umbrellas, holders, triggers, and stands, it would be around $116 plus shipping. Now you just need a couple of lights to get started and when time, ability, and money are available, you can upgrade to better quality stuff as necessary. The shipping on all of this will be cheaper if you can source from one vendor, which makes the whole strobist package pretty appealing. Anyway hope this has helped a few of you and until next post, stay safe...
-m
First, lets talk about new vs used. I'm not a big believer in used electronics, but if your on a really tight budget and your buying solid gear, I can live with it. I've been the victim of buying other peoples problems, so just be careful.
Here are the essentials...
Used Flashes:
Pick up a few Vivitar 283's as cheap as possible off of eBay, but no more than $45. Once you get them, you will need to also buy a variable power module here. With this module, your flash now ROCKS, as it's mobile, powerful, and the power output is variable. Add the SB-4 and you have quick recycle time in studio, or battery capability on location.
Another great used flash, but a little more pricey is the Nikon SB-24! Before you sink any more than $80 on a used flash, check out the New Flash recommendations.
New Flashes:
A great new flash, is a Sunpak 383 Super, which is an awesome flash that is more than capable to give you great results, and super easy to use. For just about $10 more, you should also check out Vivitar 285 HV, which has a pc sync socket, plus is just a little bit stronger light output, and has been in production for over 30 years. Probably dollar for dollar, one of the best flashes ever made.
You should have the heart and soul of your new lighting now, so lets look at how your going to trigger them.
Flash Triggers:
On the cheap side, you can buy a simple hotshoe trigger and receiver by Popsing, but you will have to buy more receivers as you get more flashes. or you can fire them via slave flash adapters. These remote triggers are cheap and pretty reliable within 25 feet or so, but certainly not meant to be pro quality or capability. There are a number of eBay sellers who specialize in these things, but it seems they all come from China, so be careful, shipping can add up quick.
Diffusers:
You will need a way to diffuse the light. You can invest in umbrellas and simple diffusers, that should all do the trick. My favorite diffuser for the money, is the bottom of rubbing alcohol bottle at walmart. Combine that simple diffuser with a shoot through translucent umbrella and you have a really quick and easy softbox effect that really provides you shadowless portraits. When it comes to the rubbing alcohol bottles at walmart, your on your own, but you can get some cheap white/translucent umbrellas on eBay here! You will also need to be able to mount your flashes and umbrellas together, which should require you go get something like this!
Now you can shoot one flash diffused with shoot through umbrella, and one light with the bounced white umbrella, if you only had a way to mount the lights.
Mounting the Lights:
Clamps can make great ways to mount flashes and umbrellas, but you must have someplace to clamp them to. Here is the cheapo version from Home Depot!
You can also buy Bogen Superclamps if you want something a little more professional. If you don't have something to clip onto, I would recommend lightstands.
Lightstands are a great way to hold your flash and your remote receivers already can be mounted directly onto a lightstand as well as your umbrella holder. I would recommend an 8 to 10 foot stand, and you can get them very reasonable here!
Finally, you can buy a whole kit already together from MPEX, specifically designed for poor strobists here!
The Bottom Line...
If I had to price this out today with a used Vivitar 283 and variable power module, with adapters, umbrellas, holders, triggers, and stands, it would be around $116 plus shipping. Now you just need a couple of lights to get started and when time, ability, and money are available, you can upgrade to better quality stuff as necessary. The shipping on all of this will be cheaper if you can source from one vendor, which makes the whole strobist package pretty appealing. Anyway hope this has helped a few of you and until next post, stay safe...
-m
Friday, August 10, 2007
Setting Perfect Exposure with Strobes or Off Camera Flash
How can I nail exposure without a light meter ($$) using my off camera flashes or strobes? Super easy, all you need is a large white towel and a camera with a histogram!
Check this out! First lets chat quickly about the histogram. A histogram is basically the visual representation of exposure through the use of a distribution curve, visible on a digital camera. Here is a quick look at histogram 101. Pay close attention to the histogram of a good photo and an overexposed photo.
Histogram Down & Dirty
If you look at the bottom right point of the good photo's exposure distribution, it's at the very bottom before it runs off the right side of the screen. What this means is that the highlights (brightest part of this image) are not beyond 255. Now, if you look at the overexposed photo's distribution, the bottom right point where the exposure ends is way off the screen past the right side of the histogram's visibility. What this means is that the highlights are way past 255, which is the brightest part the sensor will read.
Now here's the objective, artificially add the bright part of the image (white towel) and set the lights so the brightest part of the image nudges close to the right side (255), but does not go past. A white textured towel is perfect for this, because it's not purely white and because it textured. The textured quality makes the towel less reflective, so you will have a little fudge factor to work with.
Setting the exposure? First thing to decide is at what aperture do I want to shoot this picture? The answer depends on what you want to accomplish, IE shallow depth of field may be great for portrait effect, where you may find f8-f16 is the sharpest aperture for your lens. It all just depends on what you want to accomplish with the image, but only you can decide this. Once you do decide, set your camera to manual mode, ISO at lowest setting, white balance to cloudy, and place your subject about 7 feet in front of the background. Set your aperture where you want for your image and have the subject hold up the white towel in front of them. Set your shutter to any number between 60-200 or max sync speed. If your using a zoom lens, sometimes 60 is too slow you get blur. Also, some cameras will sync to 250 or even 500. I always find 125-200 to be a good place to start.
Now, set your first light (Key Light). Grab your first light and place it off to the camera right, about 4 feet, and face it at a 45 degree angle towards your subject. Turn it on and take a picture of your subject holding the towel, with the camera settings you have already decided on. Check out the histogram. Move the light closer or farther away to the subject and continue to take images, until the histogram's bottom right point nudges close to the right point of the histogram screen. Your key light is now set.
New, set your 2nd light (fill light). Turn off your first light. Grab your second light and place it off to the camera left, about 4 feet, and face it at a 45 degree angle towards your subject. Turn it on and take a picture of your subject holding the towel, with the camera settings you have already decided on. Check out the histogram. Move the light closer or farther away to the subject and continue to take images, until the histogram's bottom right point nudges close to the right point of the histogram screen. Here's the fun part. Since this is your fill light, your objective is to have this light set a stop or two below the fill light to add a 3 dimensional look and depth to the image. The amount (ratio) pretty much is dependant on the look you are trying to achieve. Maby 1:2 for basic portrait, 1:3 for Rembrandt, etc. The Rembrandt style of lighting might require a two stop difference, where a traditional portrait might only require a 1 stop difference. Again, this is more a reflection of what you as a photographer are trying to achieve with the image. Now once both lights are balanced with exposure (1:1), move your fill light back about 3 feet. Now you can shoot some more images and continue to move the fill light back, until the right side of your histogram moves closer towards the middle to middle right.
Finally your ready to start having fun. Have your subject remove the towel, turn both lights on, get them looking awesome, and start firing beautiful images that will have perfect exposure!
This lighting explanation used only two lights and a basic portrait setup, but, the principles of exposure pretty much remain the same no matter how complex or creative your lighting is. Set your camera, then set each light individually, then adjust the light output to the appropriate level to get your desired lighting effect. Many lights have variable power settings and you can substitute reducing the lights power for moving the light back and forth in this example, if your lights have the capability. The ideas on exposure are the same, although the method of achieving it is a bit different.
As always, practice, practice, practice.
Hope this helps with your photography. On my next post, I'm going to outline the least expensive way to get started and learning external lighting, what's necessary and what's not.
Here's two examples that I shot with this exact setup.
Check this out! First lets chat quickly about the histogram. A histogram is basically the visual representation of exposure through the use of a distribution curve, visible on a digital camera. Here is a quick look at histogram 101. Pay close attention to the histogram of a good photo and an overexposed photo.
Histogram Down & Dirty
If you look at the bottom right point of the good photo's exposure distribution, it's at the very bottom before it runs off the right side of the screen. What this means is that the highlights (brightest part of this image) are not beyond 255. Now, if you look at the overexposed photo's distribution, the bottom right point where the exposure ends is way off the screen past the right side of the histogram's visibility. What this means is that the highlights are way past 255, which is the brightest part the sensor will read.
Now here's the objective, artificially add the bright part of the image (white towel) and set the lights so the brightest part of the image nudges close to the right side (255), but does not go past. A white textured towel is perfect for this, because it's not purely white and because it textured. The textured quality makes the towel less reflective, so you will have a little fudge factor to work with.
Setting the exposure? First thing to decide is at what aperture do I want to shoot this picture? The answer depends on what you want to accomplish, IE shallow depth of field may be great for portrait effect, where you may find f8-f16 is the sharpest aperture for your lens. It all just depends on what you want to accomplish with the image, but only you can decide this. Once you do decide, set your camera to manual mode, ISO at lowest setting, white balance to cloudy, and place your subject about 7 feet in front of the background. Set your aperture where you want for your image and have the subject hold up the white towel in front of them. Set your shutter to any number between 60-200 or max sync speed. If your using a zoom lens, sometimes 60 is too slow you get blur. Also, some cameras will sync to 250 or even 500. I always find 125-200 to be a good place to start.
Now, set your first light (Key Light). Grab your first light and place it off to the camera right, about 4 feet, and face it at a 45 degree angle towards your subject. Turn it on and take a picture of your subject holding the towel, with the camera settings you have already decided on. Check out the histogram. Move the light closer or farther away to the subject and continue to take images, until the histogram's bottom right point nudges close to the right point of the histogram screen. Your key light is now set.
New, set your 2nd light (fill light). Turn off your first light. Grab your second light and place it off to the camera left, about 4 feet, and face it at a 45 degree angle towards your subject. Turn it on and take a picture of your subject holding the towel, with the camera settings you have already decided on. Check out the histogram. Move the light closer or farther away to the subject and continue to take images, until the histogram's bottom right point nudges close to the right point of the histogram screen. Here's the fun part. Since this is your fill light, your objective is to have this light set a stop or two below the fill light to add a 3 dimensional look and depth to the image. The amount (ratio) pretty much is dependant on the look you are trying to achieve. Maby 1:2 for basic portrait, 1:3 for Rembrandt, etc. The Rembrandt style of lighting might require a two stop difference, where a traditional portrait might only require a 1 stop difference. Again, this is more a reflection of what you as a photographer are trying to achieve with the image. Now once both lights are balanced with exposure (1:1), move your fill light back about 3 feet. Now you can shoot some more images and continue to move the fill light back, until the right side of your histogram moves closer towards the middle to middle right.
Finally your ready to start having fun. Have your subject remove the towel, turn both lights on, get them looking awesome, and start firing beautiful images that will have perfect exposure!
This lighting explanation used only two lights and a basic portrait setup, but, the principles of exposure pretty much remain the same no matter how complex or creative your lighting is. Set your camera, then set each light individually, then adjust the light output to the appropriate level to get your desired lighting effect. Many lights have variable power settings and you can substitute reducing the lights power for moving the light back and forth in this example, if your lights have the capability. The ideas on exposure are the same, although the method of achieving it is a bit different.
As always, practice, practice, practice.
Hope this helps with your photography. On my next post, I'm going to outline the least expensive way to get started and learning external lighting, what's necessary and what's not.
Here's two examples that I shot with this exact setup.
Thursday, August 9, 2007
Photography Givers!
As a photographer, it is rare to find someone who freely and without expected compensation, gives so much helpfull and relevant information to other photographers. One of my favorites and one of the most entertaining is professional photographer Ken Rockwell!
Ken is an awesome photographer and a true artist, in addition to providing an array of helpful information on shooting techniques, cameras, workflow, and a whole bunch more that's simply just entertaining. One of my favorite articles of his is Why Pro's Share!, and one of the funniest is 7 Levels of Photographers! In addition to the humerous information, Ken also just outlays tons of helpful and practical advice about cameras, photography, and photoshop, all within his site. I love his site so much, I contributed as a token of how much his advice has helped my photography. A visit will definately be worth while.
Another photographer who I've personally worked with and who gave me tons of practical hands on shooting advice, plus is one of the nices guy I know, is Paul Hamer! Paul regularly hosts workshops and events, plus helps building networks of models and photographers through his bulletin board SouthernModelShoots
Other groups of photography givers are the photographers on OpenSourcePhoto and S5000.net. There's not a whole lot that I've learned that I didn't learn from them. Both forums are populated with outstanding photographers, helpful, and giving people, that openly share much of what they have know.
Kudos to everyone who shares and those that truly aspire to become better photographers, better people, and true artists! ;-)
My next post is going to be on setting the perfect exposure (everytime) with studio strobes or using off camera flash, without a flashmeter.
until then, -m
Ken is an awesome photographer and a true artist, in addition to providing an array of helpful information on shooting techniques, cameras, workflow, and a whole bunch more that's simply just entertaining. One of my favorite articles of his is Why Pro's Share!, and one of the funniest is 7 Levels of Photographers! In addition to the humerous information, Ken also just outlays tons of helpful and practical advice about cameras, photography, and photoshop, all within his site. I love his site so much, I contributed as a token of how much his advice has helped my photography. A visit will definately be worth while.
Another photographer who I've personally worked with and who gave me tons of practical hands on shooting advice, plus is one of the nices guy I know, is Paul Hamer! Paul regularly hosts workshops and events, plus helps building networks of models and photographers through his bulletin board SouthernModelShoots
Other groups of photography givers are the photographers on OpenSourcePhoto and S5000.net. There's not a whole lot that I've learned that I didn't learn from them. Both forums are populated with outstanding photographers, helpful, and giving people, that openly share much of what they have know.
Kudos to everyone who shares and those that truly aspire to become better photographers, better people, and true artists! ;-)
My next post is going to be on setting the perfect exposure (everytime) with studio strobes or using off camera flash, without a flashmeter.
until then, -m
Wednesday, August 8, 2007
Understanding and Balancing Flash
I just wanted to drop a quick entry today highlighting what I think is an awesome little video from the guys at studiolighting.net, explaining how your shutter, flash, and balancing the flash with ambient light really works. It's a great start to understanding how flash works. Check it out HERE!
In addition, you can also check out one of my favorite blogs, strobist, for some great indepth articles and discussions on off camera flash and how it can be used to create some awesome images.
Now, if your using an ETTL (Canon or Nikons through the lens metering) flash and a white diffuser (lightsphere, omnibounce, or walmart alcohal bottle & scotch tape) you can follow these pretty easy instruction to make beautiful portraits. Keep in mind, these setting are a guide and should not be considered the solution for all situations. Generally speaking though, they are pretty helpful. While using the flash and diffusers, shoot on cloudy white balance, to ensure you get nice warm skintones.
Check out the Gary Fong's suggested settings HERE.
Finally, there is a really cool style of night photography that involves keeping the iso really low, shooting in manual, setting the shutter way down, switching to rear curtain sync, and getting some really cool night images and even moving the camera after you press the shutter to add to the effect. Check out digitalfrog's explaination
HERE!
Hope this information helps make you a better photographer and with all new things, practice will def help improve your skills.
-m
In addition, you can also check out one of my favorite blogs, strobist, for some great indepth articles and discussions on off camera flash and how it can be used to create some awesome images.
Now, if your using an ETTL (Canon or Nikons through the lens metering) flash and a white diffuser (lightsphere, omnibounce, or walmart alcohal bottle & scotch tape) you can follow these pretty easy instruction to make beautiful portraits. Keep in mind, these setting are a guide and should not be considered the solution for all situations. Generally speaking though, they are pretty helpful. While using the flash and diffusers, shoot on cloudy white balance, to ensure you get nice warm skintones.
Check out the Gary Fong's suggested settings HERE.
Finally, there is a really cool style of night photography that involves keeping the iso really low, shooting in manual, setting the shutter way down, switching to rear curtain sync, and getting some really cool night images and even moving the camera after you press the shutter to add to the effect. Check out digitalfrog's explaination
HERE!
Hope this information helps make you a better photographer and with all new things, practice will def help improve your skills.
-m
Monday, August 6, 2007
Creating an IPOD Slideshow?
First I would like to thank an awesome member of OpenSourcePhoto, Jefferson Todd, for the guidance on this great tutorial. You can check out his tutorial in PDF HERE.
Obviously the first step is to create a slideshow of the images that you would like to present and just add your favorite music. There are a number of free programs that do this such as Microsoft's PhotoStory. You can also spend a few bucks to get some of the best with Photodex's ProShowGold.
Once you have your show created with your favorite images and music, go ahead and create an mpeg video file and save it to a specific location on your computer's harddrive, but remember where, cause your going to use another program to convert it and compress it into the IPOD format.
Next, Download MPEG Streamclip HERE, it's FREE. What? Did I say FREE? This little program rocks to convert and compress your MPEG file into an IPOD readable format, and it's for Windows and MACs.
Finally, drop your new IPOD video into your ITunes library. Connect your IPOD and drag the video to your IPOD, and wala! You now have the slideshow viewable to carry around with you and show all of your friends and family.
Even cooler, MPEG Streamclip can also convert your file into a cellphone readable format if your cellphone is capable of playing and storing video. Too cool, huh?
Hope you find this helpful and hit me up if you have any questions.
-m
Obviously the first step is to create a slideshow of the images that you would like to present and just add your favorite music. There are a number of free programs that do this such as Microsoft's PhotoStory. You can also spend a few bucks to get some of the best with Photodex's ProShowGold.
Once you have your show created with your favorite images and music, go ahead and create an mpeg video file and save it to a specific location on your computer's harddrive, but remember where, cause your going to use another program to convert it and compress it into the IPOD format.
Next, Download MPEG Streamclip HERE, it's FREE. What? Did I say FREE? This little program rocks to convert and compress your MPEG file into an IPOD readable format, and it's for Windows and MACs.
Finally, drop your new IPOD video into your ITunes library. Connect your IPOD and drag the video to your IPOD, and wala! You now have the slideshow viewable to carry around with you and show all of your friends and family.
Even cooler, MPEG Streamclip can also convert your file into a cellphone readable format if your cellphone is capable of playing and storing video. Too cool, huh?
Hope you find this helpful and hit me up if you have any questions.
-m
Saturday, August 4, 2007
My First Post!
Wow, this is my first attempt to blog and my first post ever as a blogger, so here it goes, and hold on tight!
Its Friday and I'm really looking forward to O'beer thirty, but I really want to take a few minutes to share the incredible things that I've learned this week on my journey through creating a professional and inexpensive web presence.
This week has been awesome for developing my knowledge on HTML, websites, and slide shows, but what does any of this have to do with photography? Simple, I want my work to be seen in as creative and as professional a manner as possible, but because my business is so young, I don't want to spend a fortune either.
Lets first start with the idea that I know flash is slick and all, but I also wanted a flash page that would allow me to posts HTML keywords etc., so that web crawlers would crawl my site and get it ranked and listed on the major search engines. Next, I wanted a site that was easy to set up, with flexibility and was easy to update. Finally, I wanted a site that was cheap! I found it all here with flashpalette.com. Wow, what an awesome template that cost me around $60, and was a piece of cake to set up, but I did have to pick up a little HTML with the help of the actual site template and the web help page that came along with the purchase invoice. The coolest part about the template was I could download it for free, play around and set up the major portions of my site, then purchase it after seeing how slick it looked. Kinda cool, huh?
Next, I really wanted to figure out how to post a slide show on my website and to eventually post them into blogs, myspace, ipods, etc., but I had no clue where to start. Thanks to OpenSourcePhoto and an awesome photographer Bruce,who was able to message me with a simple but effective way to integrate a show into a template website. For that Bruce, Thanks a bunch and you rock!
I created the show with ProShowGold and exported the native ProShow streaming video format to a super easy slide show set to one of my favorite Jazz singers, Etta James. This was really just a test, but it worked GREAT if you have windows, but for MACs, a solution is coming soon! ;-)
Finally, I used notepad and my dear friend
Google to edit the HTML that ProShowGold creates to help me with the basic slide shows webpage. Once I got the look that I wanted, I FTP'd to my server and wala, I was done!
Whew, I'm blogged out already but my next post will outline how to take an actual video file and create a slide show for your awesome ipod
Until Then, -m
Its Friday and I'm really looking forward to O'beer thirty, but I really want to take a few minutes to share the incredible things that I've learned this week on my journey through creating a professional and inexpensive web presence.
This week has been awesome for developing my knowledge on HTML, websites, and slide shows, but what does any of this have to do with photography? Simple, I want my work to be seen in as creative and as professional a manner as possible, but because my business is so young, I don't want to spend a fortune either.
Lets first start with the idea that I know flash is slick and all, but I also wanted a flash page that would allow me to posts HTML keywords etc., so that web crawlers would crawl my site and get it ranked and listed on the major search engines. Next, I wanted a site that was easy to set up, with flexibility and was easy to update. Finally, I wanted a site that was cheap! I found it all here with flashpalette.com. Wow, what an awesome template that cost me around $60, and was a piece of cake to set up, but I did have to pick up a little HTML with the help of the actual site template and the web help page that came along with the purchase invoice. The coolest part about the template was I could download it for free, play around and set up the major portions of my site, then purchase it after seeing how slick it looked. Kinda cool, huh?
Next, I really wanted to figure out how to post a slide show on my website and to eventually post them into blogs, myspace, ipods, etc., but I had no clue where to start. Thanks to OpenSourcePhoto and an awesome photographer Bruce,who was able to message me with a simple but effective way to integrate a show into a template website. For that Bruce, Thanks a bunch and you rock!
I created the show with ProShowGold and exported the native ProShow streaming video format to a super easy slide show set to one of my favorite Jazz singers, Etta James. This was really just a test, but it worked GREAT if you have windows, but for MACs, a solution is coming soon! ;-)
Finally, I used notepad and my dear friend
Google to edit the HTML that ProShowGold creates to help me with the basic slide shows webpage. Once I got the look that I wanted, I FTP'd to my server and wala, I was done!
Whew, I'm blogged out already but my next post will outline how to take an actual video file and create a slide show for your awesome ipod
Until Then, -m
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)
About Me (-m)
- Mark Peeler
- Diamondhead, MS
- Mark Peeler, a pretty abnormal guy, photographer, husband, father, doglover, America's Most Boring Blogger Championship contestant, member of the "Jeep Lovers Foundation", the man who's been pee'd on by my son and my dog both! A true southerner with "Larry the Cable Guy" class.